27 Mar Gherardo Felloni on his cinematic fall 2021 collection for Roger Vivier
“I understood that in the past several several years, anyone reacts to honest things. When you do something that you actually imagine in, and not just for professional good reasons, folks respond. It is a really, actually skinny line, but people have an understanding of,” argues Roger Vivier Creative Director Gherardo Felloni, outlining his provocative new selection movie for the famed shoe brand name.
Felloni named his footwear flick ‘Do We Show?,’ a meditation on a present that hardly ever usually takes location, and a satirical social commentary on what is happening in the fashion and luxurious since the pandemic began.
“I wished to touch on this Covid problem, but with humor, as I am not a politician. Nobody has seriously commented on Covid in our environment,” Felloni argued.
So, the display starts with fiver doppelgängers of five icons – Marilyn Monroe, Marlene Dietrich, Josephine Baker, Grace Kelly and Edith Piaf, a determine who can not definitely sing. 5 manner fanatics perched on gold Louis XVI couture chairs with pink cushions. For Josephine sequined booties when for Marilyn diamanté slippers and heels.
“Get all those fucking lights on me,” screams Marilyn when Dietrich, cigarette in hand, seems to be down her Teutonic nose to her dominatrix boots in black patent leather with stiletto heels, which Roger Vivier is credited with inventing. All waiting around ahead of a phase with just a giant terracotta vase of crimson bouquets, before they all step by step stagger on to the stage and, properly, die.
“Could you do it yet again a tiny additional genuine?” requests the director, played by Felloni, a bearded Tuscan, born in Arezzo, a city whose previously residents contain Petrarch, Michelangelo and Vasari.
Each of his stars are all connected to the residence Marlene was a quite close good friend of Roger Vivier, who drew a unique diamanté ball heel named the Marlene. He was also a quite very good pal of Edith as a teen, Vivier experienced been to see Baker perform in Paris, and he would go on to shod Monroe. When the character participating in Kelly, in serious lifetime a pretty lively shopper, wears nubby-toed floral pumps.
“Why do they die? For the reason that if you are a performer and do not have an audience that is the identical as dying, no?” cackles Felloni, dressed in black with a late 19th-century cameo pendant of Hercules.
The end result was a selection prosperous in proportion and polish: spike-heel electrical-blue satin boots patent-leather-based boots with the house’s signature significant rectangular buckle or sensational nylon tulle booties laced with crystals and topped with cock feathers.
For working day, biker boots with thick brothel-creeper soles and rectangular facet buckles added a touch of serious. As did the new model of their house’s clutch with the model identify embossed at the again.
For the presentation, Felloni created 7 toiles, pairing just about every with footwear and exhibiting them all right before pink satin curtains. Voluminous New Search dresses and robes with a twist strategies created in denim or canvas.
Immediately after learning biology at college, Felloni, a gifted illustrator, started building for his father’s shoe factory. Ahead of heading on to be part of Prada and Miu Miu, and shelling out around four a long time with Dior, straddling the reigns of John Galliano and Raf Simons.
“Once Patrizio Bertelli instructed me I had to design 100 pairs of sneakers for the next day. So, the future working day, at 11 a.m., he had 115 sketches, and I stated, ‘take these!,” chuckles Felloni with delight.
He joined Roger Vivier – which is owned by Tod’s and Italian luxury billionaire Diego Della Valle – in 2018, likely on to develop an opulent type that regularly references the house’s revolutionary styles and lasts. For Felloni, the brand’s DNA is distinct, a close hyperlink to cinema and film stars.
“Roger Vivier’s lasts and heels are in no way banal, as he is effective on pure designs.
But what’s crucial below is savoir-faire. He was a genius designer, but also technically pretty pertinent. And rarity! It is not a manufacturer advertising hundreds of thousands of pairs, but it is rare. You can find one thing in this article that you can not find in other boutiques, which is a little something that Diego della Valle often encourages,” he insists.
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